For those of us who are slightly unfit or who could do with losing a few more pounds, this guy should give us some encouragement. Surfing is viewed as a healthy lifestyle - which, of course, it is - and surfers of both sexes shown in videos and photos are generally of the fit, slim and young variety. It's rare that you see a surfer of, shall we say, a fuller figure, especially one who rips it up. I found this vid on the net, which features Jimbo Pellegrine, a very big guy and an excellent surfer (he does drop in at 0:40 in the vid, tho') and it shows you don't need to be skinny, or even that fit, to surf.
Three weeks to my trip to Cornwall. I am unlikely to be able to go surfing before then, hence the lack of anything really meaningful to say or show.